Regardless of why you decided to make a pipe yourself - for the sake of economy, love for self-made things, or because you did not find a suitable size /diameter in the store - there is a lot of information on the Internet on how to do it. But there are nuances that should be considered before making a pipe using the advice from a YouTube video. The professionals http://zhestyanka.top/ have prepared a list of tips that will help you.
Choosing the tin
Galvanized sheet is suitable for the downpipe; it is sold in sheets in hardware stores.
Black tin is suitable for chimneys, but it will burn out in six months or a year. Of course, that's enough for the first time. But for the pipe to last longer, take 0.8 mm sheet steel:
- sheet "heat-resistant" aisi 430 (it is easy to check it - a magnet sticks to it). Excellent resistance to high temperatures. It is considered stainless steel, but this is not entirely true, because if there are acids in the water, they will corrode “four hundred or thirty” - it is not acid-resistant. Therefore, it is worth making of it that part of the pipe that will be closer to the furnace - there the vapors will burn out and condensate will not collect (condensate from water, tar, tar and other things contains sulfuric and nitric acids, which will corrode your pipe and it will burn out)
- sheet "stainless steel" aisi 304 is less heat-resistant, but resistant to condensation, therefore, if you will not heat your stove, it will be suitable for all parts of the chimney. If the temperature is expected to be very high all the time, you can combine 430 and 304
- sheet "heat-resistant" 321, unlike 430, it is acid-resistant. Experts advise taking sheets of 0.5 mm, since a thin pipe heats up faster, deposits inside it burn out faster, which means that there is no condensation left
Tools for working with tin
You don't have to splurge on expensive tools. If you do not have something from the list below on your farm, you can replace it (and we wrote with what).
So, you will need:
- Ordinary metal scissors, but keep in mind that they cut sheets no thicker than seven millimeters, for thicker metal you will have to make an effort. Important! They must be sharp, otherwise the edges will be torn or crooked
- Mallet. If you don't have one, you can take a regular hammer and glue a piece of rubber onto it with special glue. Do not knock metal on metal, because this will damage the protective layer of the sheet and then provoke corrosion
- Metal marker. Many people advise using a rod or a large nail with a sharp sharpening, but such a marker can only mark the cut points, you cannot make any marks in other places with a scratching tool (all for the same reason - so as not to damage the metal and its coating)
- Flat
